Where plans fail, life begins - Valais 2025

The unexpected - two of 10

Already on the very first day it became clear: once again, everything turned out differently. While I managed to summit Breithorn (4,164 m) and Castor (4,225 m) as planned, the ambitious idea of crossing eight more 4,000ers in just four days to reach the new Monte Rosa Hut was over.

During the ascent of Castor, one team member was struck on the head by falling rock above 4,000 meters and had to be evacuated by helicopter. Another decided to abandon the tour. By the second day, we were descending into Italy, into the Aosta Valley.

Thankfully, the injury proved to be only a superficial head wound, and no one was seriously harmed. Still, it forced us to regroup and rethink. For me, the summits of Dufourspitze (4,634 m), Nordend (4,608 m), and Strahlhorn (4,190 m) remained on the horizon.

But was it truly justifiable to continue after what had happened?

In the high mountains, one is always exposed to objective dangers. Rockfall, icefall, avalanches, they cannot be fully avoided. Yet by reading the mountain, by observing and respecting its conditions, one can greatly minimize the risks. A residual risk remains. Always.

A ship is safe in harbor, but that is not what it was built for. I don't go to the mountains with the wish to die. I go with the wish to live. To experience. To find meaning and moments that cannot exist within the cocoon of modern comfort.

And so, for me, there was only one answer: yes. It was right and necessary to continue. The injured teammate, sharing the same conviction, revealed once again the strength of our bond.

Dufourspitze (4,634m) & Strahlhorn (4,190m)

It was 02:00 a.m. The alarm rang, and after a rather restless night, I prepared for the ascent from the Monte Rosa Hut to the Dufourspitze. My teammate, the one who had been evacuated from Castor just three days earlier, had accompanied me to the hut and would wait for my return. Such commitment, such mental strength.

Overnight, about 15 cm of fresh snow had fallen, making the climb even more challenging. Yet my guide and I decided to start first and break trail. I had a deep respect for this climb. The memory of turning back in 2023 lingered, but I was determined to reach the summit and take in the perspectives only the highest point in Switzerland could offer. Of course, I brought my Sony Alpha 7CR and 70–200mm lens, adding another 2 kg to the pack. But there was no alternative.

The ascent, as expected, was grueling. Physically exhausting, steep, and mentally demanding. But at 09:19 a.m., I finally stood on the summit of Dufourspitze, 4,634 meters above sea level. A rollercoaster of exhaustion and joy.

After the obligatory summit chocolate, I took my time to capture the perspectives that struck my eye. Many I had anticipated from the 2023 ascent, but others revealed themselves spontaneously. What a gift.

We then roped down 200 meters to the Silbersattel and decided on the direct descent, leaving Nordend untouched. The day had already advanced, and with the sun's warming rays, snow bridges over crevasses became dangerously unstable. An unnecessary risk. Nordend remains for another year, an invitation yet to be accepted.

After 14 hours on the mountain, we reached Zermatt at 5:00 p.m. Exhausted but elated, I collapsed into the comforting bed at Hotel Bergfreund in Herbriggen.

Only days later, it was time for Strahlhorn. My teammate, the one struck at Castor, returned to climb alongside me. A testament of resilience and spirit. Together we stood on its summit on August 26 at 06:54 am.

What remains are experiences that once again shifted my perspective on life and the world. Extreme, unexpected, at times threatening. But ultimately granting clarity and freedom in a way only the mountains can. Experiences I carry forward with gratitude and inspiration.

Looking toward new paths. New works. New summits.

Next Stop: Nepal.